Play One, Work One
There he goes again…dismantling my helm. This week’s project is two-fold. He’s mounting the remote auto-pilot to the station on the flying bridge. We’ve found that it’s the only place it gets used, so the wires will now be hidden and it will be secured in a safe dry place. It’s really the most useful for the rudder angle indicator also, so when we’re docking, it’s readily in sight.
Secondly, he’s adding a jog-stick, also to the flying bridge. Rather than spinning the wheel sixteen times (which will still be an option, of course, just not mandatory), there will simply be an electronic button to push to move the rudder left or right. Again, simplifies docking so that even a Jamie can do it!
Which beings us to my interior projects for the day. I’ve been touching up some paint, but am stumped when it comes to these cracks. They’re from the boat moving underway and are probably inevitable, but I’d like to control them as much as possible. So I need help, people (Rob, Tana, Tim ~ I’m counting on you guys!). Do I sand and repaint the wood? Caulk? Tape? Help!
experience
I agree! fill it with flexible filler anyway and paint over it when you next decorate (see how long it lasts):o))Levering both sides up indiviually up with a stiff scraper isn`t too much of a chore and with a long fine nozzle as supplied by the glue manufacturers, would get the glue into place so not too difficult really. :o))
Really? That’s the “easiest” solution you can come up with, Rob? Well, as always, either do it right or don’t do it at all. Brock thinks tearing into it would open cans of worms best left unopened. I’m thinking Tana has a point. Perfection is overrated! Cracks have now become “character” in my book
Tee Heeee “Stutterer`s finger Tana” !
Yup. What Rob said. Do you want to run a thin piece of molding over the crack to cover? Then you’d have to add it elsewhere to make the whole space look balanced. You could also take the POV that, bugger all, its a freakin yacht and a beautiful one at that. It isn’t going to be PERFECT, as much as you’d like it to be. Consider this point, when they make Persian rugs, they make a point of making them NOT perfect. Only Allah can make things perfect. Anything less is an insult to Allah. When I heard this I thought, OK, I can work with that. Now I don’t bust my head over trying to be perfect as darn it all, I already am! Feel free to use this but don’t get all willy-nilly and keep thinking you can still sleep in to all hours!
Yup. What Rob said. Do you want to run a thin piece of molding over the crack to cover? Then you’d have to add it elsewhere to make the whole space look balanced. You could also take the POV that, bugger all, its a freakin yacht and a beautiful one at that. It isn’t going to be PERFECT, as much as you’d like it to be. Consider this point, when they make Persian rugs, they make a point of making them NOT perfect. Only Allah can make things perfect. Anything less is an insult to Allah. When I heard this I thought, OK, I can work with that. Now I don’t bust my head over trying to be perfect as darn it all, I already am! Feel free to use this but don’t get all willy-nilly and keep thinking you can still sleep in to all hours!
I can’t improve on what Rob said
Hi jamie! the only ,real, way is to make the sheet into a one piece item by tongueing the edges and gluing with epoxy (which,I guess,isn`t possible as the ply is only 6 mill?) so what to do? Initially I would “V” out the joint ( do only one first) so that you can get a reasonabe amount of flexible ( builders) filler in to it and flush off and check it out for cracking in six months, if it is OK do all the others. The problem is, (the disimilar movement in the two abutting sheets which are usually well secured locally) as the boat flexes the sheets move independently, wheareas a single sheet would flex within its self and on the fixings, not manifesting any cracks until the flexing became so bad that the sheet would crack across, probably at, or very near to, the existing joint position now. Cover strips work well but can look ugly but they don`t have to be 4x2s and something no larger than say 3/16″x3/4″ with rounded or bevelled eges pinned over the crack wouldn`t look too bad? and might forfill your needs! these are readily available in most “shed type” builders/DIY stores etc. Alternatively ( theres always one isn`t there?) Gently prise the sheet joints away from the stud or batten, (with a paint scraper or similar having taken the screw fixings out, if they are fixed in that manner) it is fixed too and squeeze some epoxy glue in between the sheet and the batten and fix the sheet back (this also makes it one sheet now, splinting the sheet by better use of the batten or stud ) and fill with the “V” joint method, with flexible filler! Hope it works for you, Good luck!